Unit 10 Proposal

Project: Deidre the Dragon Disciple

I intend to make a 1:1 scale bust of a half-dragon half-woman. It will be a design of my own. One challenge I’ll be setting myself is to design a monster that is still attractive. The second is to make it look as realistic as possible using professional sculpting and painting techniques. The third is to create a mould well enough that it can be presented as a portfolio piece on its own.

  1. Design/technical info

  2. Method/Plan

  3. Materials and Quantities

  4. Schedule

  5. Bibliography of Sources

1. Design/technical info:

First quick sketch:


Final concept:

dierdre refined

Technical drawing:


2. Method/Plan:


I will begin with a base made of polystyrene to add my clay to.

It won’t be as detailed as this image, just the general size and shape that I need. The rest of the work will be done in chavant medium nsp.

Rough sculpt:

I’ll then get sculpt the basic form enough to know where every feature is. I’ll measure where the eyes are and insert the glass eyes I ordered so I have a solid reference. I’ll also make sure I know where the nose, hairline, ears, jawline, and mouth are before focusing on the horns.


I’ll be focusing on the horns first so I can remove them to then mould and cast them separately. I’m doing this so the main mould will have fewer undercuts and can be more rounded. Casting them before I finish the main sculpt will also allow me to layout the way they will later attach when it’s all finished.

Here are the type of horns I’ll be basing mine off of:

horns of a blesbuck

I’ll be making a two part silicone block mould for them. So I’ll put the horns in a wooden box with the bottom connecting to the side of the box. I’ll then build up clay to the middle of the horns horizontally. Then I’ll add keys and pour the silicone. After it’s cured I’ll take the clay out and pour the other half of the mould. Each horn will be done separately and I’ll do the same for both.

I’ll cast them in fast cast, remove the seem and place them back on the sculpt for good reference later.

Sculpt finishing:

This is where I will finish all details on the main sculpt, using different techniques to do reptile skin textures on a human form.

(Sendy, 2009)

Fibreglass jacket:

Once finished sculpting I’ll be making a matrix mould, so I’ll have to make several preparations. I will cover the sculpt in plastic wrap to protect it and follow with a ¾ inch layer of water based clay.

(Ivar_L, 2005)

I’ll add ridges and locks so that later the silicone can lock into the jacket. Then I’ll build a wall so I can make a two part fibreglass jacket on the clay. I’ll then remove some of the clay from the wall, and build up the other side the same as before so I can make the other half of the jacket.

Silicone mould:

I’ll then take one side of the jacket off and remove the clay from that side.

(Ivar_L, 2005)

I’ll build a wall on the same seam as the jacket with the wet clay. It will be important to make sure the clay is against the sculpt and that it’s at a 90 degree angle from the surface so it makes a better mould. Then, I’ll place the other half of the fibreglass jacket on and pour the first half of silicone. After that has cured I’ll take the second half of the jacket off, remove the clay, spray release agent on the silicone, and pour the second half of the silicone mould.

This explains the process in a really simplified way:


After demoulding I’ll slush cast with fast cast. I will do around 5 or 6 small batches moving the mould constantly to get an even coating.


After demoulding I’ll need to clean up the seam, glue the horns in place with araldite and follow with a paint job. I’ll use a plastic primer so the paint stays on strong and use several techniques of splattering, airbrushing and dry brushing to get the desired effect.

This is a resin arm painted with realistic skin tones:

(Hartwell, 2009)

The color scheme I’m using for the draconic skin is similar to this:

After painting I’ll add glass crocodile eyes that I bought by cutting out the area where the eyes are with a dremel and inserting them from behind.

The eyes look like this:

And the very last step will be to add the wig. It will be a copper/auburn wavy style woman’s wig. I’ll glue it on with contact adhesive and the bust will be finished.

3. Materials and Quantities:


  • Monster or chavant clay – 10lbs £ 35
  • white spirit – minimal
  • armature wire – 2 meters
  • new sculpting tools – self provided
  • polystyrene – 500 x 500 x 500 mm block


  • Silicone – 5kg £ 55
  • Release Agent – minimal
  • talcum powder – minimal
  • pigment – minimal
  • Water based clay – 5kg


  • polyester resin – 4kg
  • fibreglass mat – 1 x 5 meters
  • fibreglass tissue – 1 x 2 meters
  • fibreglass chopped – 1 kg
  • brushes – 14
  • mixing sticks – 50
  • Paper cups – 50
  • vinyl gloves – 100


  • eyes 24 millimetres – £ 21
  • red wig – £10 – £ 20
  • Fast Cast – 2kg
  • Paints – minimal
  • 18 mm mdf for base- 500 x 500 mm

4. Schedule: here – Unit 10 work timetable

5. Bibliography of Sources:

Eyesmadeeasy. (2010). Clone Helmet Mold. [Online Video]. 08 August. Available from: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZEe8gLJrvY. [Accessed: 01 May 2013].

Eyesmadeeasy. (2010). Clone Helmet #2.wmv. [Online Video]. 11 August. Available from: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmTAPPHqAs4. [Accessed: 01 May 2013].

Hartwell, V. 2009. Skin Painting. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.theeffectslab.com/skinpainting.htm. [Accessed 03 May 13].

Hobbysilicone. 2010. Various Mold types. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.hobbysilicone.com/Mold_Inst.pdf. [Accessed 01 May 13].

Ivar_L. 2005. Hellboy bust and matrix mold making. [ONLINE] Available at: http://forums.conceptart.org/showthread.php?t=47324#.UYF7NMqhT9N. [Accessed 01 May 13].

Ladman. 2012. How to cast a mold. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.therpf.com/f9/how-cast-mold-171330/. [Accessed 01 May 13].

Sendy. 2009. Sculpting detail in oil clay. [ONLINE] Available at: http://theeffectslab.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=10057. [Accessed 03 May 13].


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